Exploring Paxos By Boat

We decided to go against our better judgment, which led to us having the most expensive coffee either one of us has ever had to pay for (€76, in case you were wondering), and avoid the oversubscribed island excursions sold around Paxos.

See Also: The Coastal Towns Of Paxos

It all made for a great story, one which we can laugh at in hindsight, but more on that later.


Hiring a boat

Getting up far too early for a Saturday, we set off on our 40 minute, mostly down hill (thankfully), walk to the small harbour of Loggos. Probably one of our favourite places in Paxos.

We had bumped into our island neighbours a few days earlier and they recommend Roxi Bar for hiring a boat (a small 30hp that doesn’t require a licence, a recipe for disaster you might say). It’s also a fantastic place for a quick coffee or sun downer, as the view out back is incredible. We must have popped in at least half a dozen times during our stay.

View from Roxi Bar in Loggos

There are quite a few outfits in each harbour, making it difficult to differentiate the good from the bad. They turned out to be cheaper, not to mention much friendlier, than the others – as long as you don’t do what we did. So we we happily booked them.

After a quick induction, where they stressed that “under no circumstances should you anchor on the west coast of the island“, and breakfast next door we left the harbour. Without a care in the world, we tootled along the coast heading North.

Loggos Port and Roxi Bar Boat Hire

Having the freedom to control your own speed and stop where you please made it all worthwhile. The massive cliffs and rock faces formations, along with the water and it’s various shades of blue, had us running on a high.

After we had explored enough caves to satisfy any budding geographer, we decided it was time to drop anchor for a spot of lunch and a brief paddle. We found a lovely spot with two other boats and didn’t pay much attention to where we were on the island – huge mistake.

We dropped anchor and I (Chris) kept insisting that it wasn’t catching so the boat was drifting towards the shore. Call me paranoid, but I was right. After the third attempt, worth nothing that I (Chris) wanted to give up after the second, we thought we were successful so sat down to eat and jumped into the water for a quick splash.

Where we dropped anchor for lunch

When we climbed back on board, it was clear that the boat had moved a good 15 meters towards the shore. Quickly putting the boat into reverse, we put some distance between us and the stoney beach and began pulling the anchor up.

It was slow at first, then it came up quickly – a bit like the realisation when I was holding the end of a piece of rope that should have had a heavy anchor attached to it.


“We’ve lost the bloody anchor” I cried in disbelief. “What?” was the response. And so our first domestic as a married couple began. We all know whose fault it was, so I (Chris) graciously accepted defeat, after some gentle persuasion.

The whole thing was rather comical. It was only when we called in to let the hire company know, that we realised that we were in fact on the West coast. Oh dear..

Our anchor was somewhere down there..
Our anchor was somewhere down there…

Turns out that a large portion of people who drop anchor on this side of the island tend to lose it. As the waters are so deep it makes it almost impossible to retrieve.

Taking full responsibility for our stupidity, we bought a new anchor (although asked if we could sit and have a coffee, which now came with an unconditional anchor in tow). Determined not to put a downer on the day we headed out again to explore some more of the East Coast and closed it on a high.

What an adventure and something we’d recommend doing. Hiring the boat that is, not losing an anchor.

Despite everything that happened, we still drank at the bar again and would definitely hire a boat from them if we had the chance.

Snorkelling Tour

You’d think that you’d spend most mornings laying in whilst on your honeymoon, not with me around. Two days in a row, on a weekend too, we were up early. This time we marched on down to the nearby harbour of Lakka for our snorkelling trip with Paxos Oasi Sub.

For those of you who know me, I (Chris) have an irrational fear of open water. So what better way to embrace that than by jumping off a boat into the sea. Much to my liking, we kept close to land.

Paxos Oasi Sub staff

The staff were brilliant. They spoke English remarkably well and were all super friendly. It’s always reassuring to see a tidy storage facility, with all the gear clearly well maintained – something divers will appreciate.

After we’d been fitted and they’d loaded up the boat, we were on our way back to the West coast again. This time it certainly wouldn’t be us losing an anchor, I was sure of it.

Whilst it certainly wasn’t cheap, it was great to be such a small group. Hannah and I were joined by two divers and three staff. Having almost a 1:1 ratio with staff makes all the difference and they picked two great spots for us to snorkel and the others to dive in.

Courtesy of Paxos Oasi Sub

The first stop saw us swim through an incredibly deep archway, bobbing along the surface as we followed the cliffs around the side. All while admiring the sheer impact the sea has on the landscape. It was cold, very cold. We were definitely grateful for 5mm wetsuits, as the sun hid behind the clouds.

Once we’d all surfaced and boarded the boat we had a quick tour of The Blue Caves before the tourist boats descended upon them. We were amazed at how they managed to fit such large ships inside.

The Blue Caves Paxos

Our second and final stop of the morning was nearby. An unassuming cave entrance that opened into a huge underwater cavern. The way the light streamed in was hypnotising and there were an abundance of fish swimming around inside. It certainly got colder in there, but we were too distracted to really notice.

Overall we had a really enjoyable morning with the team at Paxos Oasi Sub and they would certainly get a massive recommendation from us both.

Until next time.


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